Kutch is a district in the westernmost part of India. It is known for its vast desert and rich cultural heritage. It was part of the Sindh state which spread across pre-independence India and now Pakistan. The region is recognised for its diversity, being home to diverse communities, and pastoralism playing a significant role in the local economy. Over the period, the livelihood ecosystem in Kutch has been shaped by pastoral practices. This has left a lasting impact on the region’s crafts, particularly wool production.
Pastoralists in Kutch have long relied on their livestock for their livelihoods. Animal products such as milk, meat, and wool forms the foundation of their economy. Wool, in particular, has been a vital material for clothing and other purposes since ancient times.
However, in recent years, the demand for natural wool has significantly declined. This has led to a shift in focus among pastoralists from wool production to meat and milk. This shift has negatively impacted the wool ecosystem, affecting the livelihoods of those who have traditionally depended on it.
Associated Problems And Challenges
Kutch is traditionally known for its deep association with pastoralism and crafts. It has experienced significant shifts over time due to changes in market demand and ecological conditions. Historically, pastoral communities in Kutch raised sheep primarily for wool. It is considered a pious material and used in the clothes of local gods. This has contributed to the livelihoods of local spinners and weavers who depend on wool for their craft.
However, with the rise in demand for meat and a sharp decline in the economic viability of wool production, many pastoralists have stopped prioritising wool. The shift has been driven by several factors, including market dynamics, increased costs of wool shearing, and lower returns, causing a ripple effect on the local craft ecosystem.
1. Type of sheep and their uses
In Kutch and Gujarat, there are a variety of sheep breeds present at the moment, such as Patanwadi, Baradi, Marwadi, Duma etc. Each one of them has different characteristics and qualities which makes them ideal for different uses. Bhara Bhai said that Patanwadi has the best quality of wool in the region. It gives approximately 2kg of milk per day. Whereas other varieties do not have high quality milk or wool.
Due to climate change and urbanisation, sheep have to travel a lot for grazing. The Patanwadi breed of sheep can not travel much and it takes 4 years to be adult, whereas a breed like Baradi becomes an adult in just 4 months. They are able to climb easily and travel much in comparison to others after selective cross-breeding.
Kavita Chaudhary, the design director from Jaipur Rugs, one of the biggest organisations working with wool, spoke to us recently. She said that the quality of wool is defined by colour, shine, and staple length. If we could assure these three demand for our wool might increase.
2. Lava – The Shearers
In the current wool value chain, the lava plays a very significant role. Initially, when wool had a good price people would call the shearers. They sheared the sheep and offered a price for the wool. But as the wool prices declined herders had to call the shearers only at their time. They also had to pay the way the shearers wanted. In a year, the herder has to shear twice. However, sometimes the shearer came in just 4 months and sometimes in 8 months depending on lava‘s availability. These cause irregular staple length and quality of wool.
3. Impact Of pastoral land
Initially pastorals had a lot of land to graze so they could travel to any place in the area but now due to the shrinkage of land there is less land available per sheep and it results in bad quality of fodder. Also, there is a lot of sweating in less area. All of these result in the coarse and bad quality of wool. Which now worsens the situation.
Key Challenges
Shift In Market
The global wool market has undergone major changes, and Indian wool demand is mostly met by imports. Locally, Kutch’s wool has lost its value. Most of it is discarded due to the short staple length and coarse nature. This has led to reduced income for those dependent on the wool production.
Economic Imbalance
The rising cost of shearing, coupled with inadequate returns from wool, has discouraged pastoralists from producing wool. Sheep breeds like Baradi, Duma, and Marwadi, which produce less wool, have gained attention due to their better suitability for meat production.
Breed Decline
The Patanwadi sheep breed, known for its superior wool, is neglected, leading to its gradual decline in favour of breeds that are more profitable for meat but less productive for wool.
Artisanal Livelihoods
Spinners and weavers who once relied on the local wool supply have seen their livelihoods severely impacted. With the diminishing availability of wool, their craft production has slowed down, resulting in economic hardship.
Cultural Loss
The decline in wool production threatens not just the local economy but also the cultural heritage tied to wool weaving and pastoralism in Kutch. Traditional practices erode as pastoralists focus on meat production.
Biodiversity
The diminishing focus on wool-producing sheep like the Patanwadi has ecological implications, as it reduces the diversity of sheep breeds in the region, which historically supported the wool industry.
Khamir’s Approach
To address the decline in wool production and its impact on local livelihoods, we implemented a multi-faceted approach aimed at reviving wool-based crafts in Kutch. By collaborating with herders, spinners, artisans, and designers, we focused on creating a sustainable and ecological wool production process that both preserved cultural heritage and provided fair economic opportunities.
a] Methodology
We conducted surveys across Kutch to understand the availability and variety of indigenous wool breeds. This included interviews with herders to gather insights about the changing trends in pastoralism and wool production. To ensure the quality of the wool, we collaborated with Gusshel and the Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute, a specialised testing facility, to test the wool’s strength and durability. This allowed us to determine the suitability of different varieties for crafting purposes. We organized training sessions for women, many of whom traditionally worked with wool, to enhance their skills in spinning and weaving. These trainings equipped them to work with the indigenous wool breeds more effectively.
b] Sourcing Wool
We began by working directly with pastoralists to source wool from indigenous breeds like the Patanwadi, ensuring that the wool was of high quality and sustainably sourced.
c] Processing At Bikaner
The raw wool was then sent to a facility in Bikaner for further processing. This ensured that the wool was clean, carded, and ready for spinning and weaving. After processing the wool, we distributed it to women spinners, providing them with fair wages to support their livelihoods. This economic empowerment was a key part of our initiative.
d] Design And Weaving
Collaborating with designers, we developed new garments and fabrics using spun wool. This involved integrating traditional weaving techniques with contemporary designs, which helped showcase the rich cultural heritage of Kutch.
e] Exhibitions And Promotion
We participated in several exhibitions to promote Desi Oon (indigenous wool) products, bringing attention to the craftsmanship and ecological benefits of using local wool. These events also served as a platform to support the larger Desi Oon initiative.
Stakeholders
Pastoralists – Herders played a crucial role in the project by providing wool from indigenous sheep breeds, such as Patanwadi, Baradi, and Marwadi.
Women Spinners And Weavers – Women traditionally involved in wool craft engaged as spinners and weavers, receiving training and fair compensation.
Designers – We collaborated with designers to develop new wool products that combined traditional techniques with modern aesthetics.
Processing Facilities – The Bikaner facility processed the raw wool, ensuring high-quality materials for the spinners and weavers.
Local Communities – Communities in Kutch were integral to the project, contributing local knowledge and participating in the revival of the wool-based craft economy.
Solution/Intervention
To address the challenge of diminishing wool production and the decline of local wool-based crafts in Kutch, we implemented a comprehensive solution focused on reviving the regional wool (Desi Oon) value chain. Our approach aimed to enhance the quality of indigenous wool while creating market demand for it. This required both, improving the wool’s properties, such as softness and staple length, and, ensuring that the entire value chain—from wool processing to product development—was robust and sustainable.
The core of the solution involved recreating the value of regional wool by working on its quality and developing a market for indigenous breeds. We focused on improving the staple length and softness of the wool, making it more suitable for diverse products.
Additionally, we worked to revive the entire value chain, starting with the training of women artisans and building infrastructure for wool processing on campus. This enabled us to produce high-quality wool products that reflect the cultural heritage of Kutch, while also ensuring fair wages and economic empowerment for the artisans involved.
Tools/Resources Used
1. Wool Testing And Quality Enhancement
We used quality testing tools to analyse the staple length and softness of different wool varieties. Collaborations with testing facilities like Gusshel helped ensure that the wool met the required standards.
2. Wool Processing System
Khamir established a wool processing unit on its campus, equipped with tools for cleaning, carding, and spinning the wool. This allowed us to streamline the process, from raw wool to finished yarn.
3. Training Programs
We designed and conducted training programs for women artisans, many of whom had traditional expertise in wool craft. The training covered spinning, weaving, and creating market-ready wool products.
4. Design Collaboration
By collaborating with designers, we ensured that the final products were both beautiful and functional, blending traditional aesthetics with modern demand.
Implementation
Identification And Training Of Artisans
The first step was to identify women in the community who had been involved in wool craft or showed potential interest. These women trained in spinning, weaving, and product design, with an emphasis on enhancing the softness and quality of the wool they worked with.
Creation Of A Wool Processing System
A wool processing unit was set up on campus to handle the cleaning, carding, and spinning of wool. This centralized system ensured consistent quality and allowed artisans to focus on crafting products rather than handling raw wool processing individually.
Product Development
Using the processed wool, artisans began creating a wide range of products, including garments and fabrics. We focused on combining traditional weaving techniques with modern designs to appeal to contemporary markets.
Market Creation
To support the newly developed products, we created a market for regional wool by participating in exhibitions and showcasing the products as part of the Desi Oon initiative. This brought attention to the quality of the wool, helping to build demand for it both regionally and beyond.
Results/Outcome
The intervention we implemented to revive the wool value chain in Kutch has led to significant and measurable improvements, both in terms of livelihood generation and the overall value of the wool produced. By focusing on enhancing wool quality, training artisans, and creating market demand, we were able to make a substantial impact on the regional economy and the craft community.
A] Quantitative
Livelihood Generation: We successfully ensured the livelihood of over 100 artisans and weavers in the region, providing them with consistent and fair wages. This economic empowerment has been a key outcome of the project.
Wool Production: We now source wool from 20% of the herders in the region, reviving indigenous sheep breeds like Patanwadi for their wool production. This has not only increased the use of local resources but also preserved traditional pastoral practices.
Annual Sales: Through our efforts, we have achieved an annual wool production sale of ₹32 lakh. This represents a significant boost to the local economy and has helped establish regional wool as a viable commercial product.
Cost Efficiency: By strategically reducing unnecessary costs in the value chain, we have made the wool production process more sustainable. This ensures that the artisans and herders receive a larger share of the profits, further solidifying the economic stability of the community.
B] Qualitative
Community Empowerment: The project has revived a sense of pride in traditional wool craftsmanship. Women artisans, in particular, have shared positive feedback, expressing how the training and fair wages have allowed them to contribute meaningfully to their households and regain their traditional roles in the craft economy.
National Recognition: As part of the Desi Oon Hub, our organisation has gained national recognition for its work in promoting indigenous wool. We are now the largest organisation within the Desi Oon Hub in terms of work and impact, which has positioned us as leaders in the movement to preserve and promote Desi Oon across India.
Before And After The Intervention
Before the intervention, the wool from indigenous breeds in Kutch was often discarded or undervalued, leading to a decline in wool-based crafts and economic hardships for pastoralists, spinners, and weavers. Wool production had nearly disappeared from the region as herders focused more on sheep for meat production. After the intervention, we revived wool production by improving wool quality, enhancing the value chain, and creating market demand for local wool products.
Artisans are now able to produce beautiful garments and fabrics, and herders are once again raising sheep for wool. The economic conditions of over 100 artisans and 20% of the region’s herders have improved, and the annual wool sale has reached ₹32 lakh, showcasing the success of our efforts.
The results demonstrate both measurable economic growth and a positive cultural shift, ensuring the long-term sustainability of the wool craft in Kutch.
Successes: What Worked Well?
Revival of Indigenous Wool: One of the most significant successes was the revival of regional wool production using indigenous breeds like Patanwadi. By improving wool quality and creating demand, we were able to re-establish wool as a viable resource in Kutch.
Empowerment of Artisans: Training and providing fair wages to over 100 women artisans created a sustainable livelihood model. Their engagement in spinning, weaving, and product development helped preserve traditional skills while contributing to the local economy.
Market Creation and Recognition: The introduction of products made by Desi Oon in various exhibitions brought national recognition to the project. As the largest organisation within the Desi Oon Hub, we successfully positioned indigenous wool as a valued material in India.
Sustainable Practices: The focus on ecological and sustainable wool production, from sourcing to processing, aligned with environmental and cultural conservation goals. This approach helped preserve traditional pastoral practices while promoting long-term economic viability.
Challenges: What Were The Obstacles?
Initial Resistance: Convincing pastoralists to return to wool production, which had been neglected due to market shifts and ecological changes, was initially challenging. Many herders had shifted to raising sheep primarily for meat, making it difficult to reintroduce wool as a profitable resource.
Cost Constraints: The cost of processing wool, such as shearing, cleaning, and carding, often outweighed the returns for the artisans and herders. Managing these costs and ensuring fair compensation for all stakeholders required careful planning and cost-cutting without compromising quality.
Skill Gaps: While training artisans was successful, there were gaps in skill levels that required more intensive capacity-building. The traditional knowledge of wool craft had been fading, and it took time to reintroduce these skills and adapt them to modern market demands.
Future Improvements: What Would We Do Differently?
Strengthening The Value Chain: While we made significant strides in reviving the wool value chain, future efforts could focus on further optimizing the processing stages. This includes reducing waste and enhancing efficiencies in wool sorting, spinning, and weaving to increase overall productivity and profitability.
Diversification Of Products: In future projects, we could explore more diversified product lines that cater to different markets, including high-end fashion, home decor, and eco-friendly products. This would help broaden the market base for indigenous wool products and increase sales.
Long-Term Skill Development: More sustained efforts in skill development and training could be implemented to ensure that the artisans continue to improve and innovate. This could include collaborations with design schools or experts to bring in new techniques that complement traditional practices.
Scaling Up Nationally: While we have seen success on a national level through the Desi Oon Hub, there is potential to scale up further by establishing partnerships with large retailers, fashion brands, and international markets. This would ensure that the demand for Desi Oon grows beyond regional boundaries, offering even greater opportunities for the artisans and herders.
Conclusion
The intervention to revive wool production in Kutch has proven to be a valuable effort in preserving traditional crafts while fostering sustainable livelihoods. By reintroducing indigenous wool from breeds like Patanwadi and empowering over 100 artisans and herders, we successfully rebuilt a once-declining value chain. The focus on ecological sustainability and fair wages ensured that the benefits extended across the community, particularly to women artisans who regained their place in the craft economy.
The broader impact of this intervention goes beyond economic growth. It revitalised the cultural heritage of Kutch, brought national recognition to Desi Oon, and demonstrated how traditional practices can be adapted to modern market demands. The project showed the importance of perseverance, community collaboration, and attention to sustainability in developing a craft that can endure ecological and economic challenges. Key insights from this case study include the need to balance costs with fair compensation, continuous skill development, and the importance of market creation for indigenous products.
The results highlight the transformative power of connecting traditional crafts to broader markets while respecting the cultural and ecological contexts in which they thrive.
In summary, this case study serves as an example of how a focused, sustainable approach to craft revival can create lasting economic and cultural impact, offering a blueprint for similar interventions in the future.
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