After the celebration of a bountiful harvest at the end of January, in the Achanakmar Tiger Reserve in Bilaspur, the village of Saraipali was decorated with vibrant colours, crop handicrafts with melodious dance tunes, and the mouth watering aromas of traditional Chhattisgarhi cuisine. The Jevnaar Mela, an annual food fair organised by Jan Swasthya Sahyog is a celebration of lost food traditions of the region.
The festival welcomed visitors with a mesmerizing performance by members of the Oraon tribe. Their opening song and dance paid homage to nature and all its bounties—food, water, and life itself. Through their soulful celebration, they honoured their years of survival, resilience, and the deep connection their community shares with the land.
Bringing Back Lost Food Traditions
The Jevnaar Mela was conceived as a way to rekindle the lost culinary heritage of the region, bring the village community together, and inspire them to embrace the food traditions that were long sidelined by the introduction of the Public Distribution System in 1997. Over the years, traditional crops like millets had gradually disappeared from local diets, replaced by the mass cultivation of rice due to its higher yield. This event aimed to turn the tide, celebrating not just the nostalgia of these lost foods but also their immense nutritional value.
Rich in both macro and micronutrients, millets and indigenous crops offer a healthier, more sustainable alternative to mainstream dietary habits.
A Journey Through Time
Food and frolic became the common language at Jevnaar Mela. The village of Saraipali, which prides itself on being self-sufficient, played host to a stunning display of traditional dishes made from forgotten ingredients. Women from over 90 Self Help Groups prepared over 120 varieties of food, treating the 1,200 attendees to a feast unlike any other. For a nominal entry fee of 10 rupees—implemented as a measure to manage the overwhelming crowd from last year—visitors had access to an experience that was as educational as it was delicious.
Everyone relished the return of these traditional flavors. The day saw people indulging in delicacies like Chilla roti, Kodo pulao, Madiya pulao, Mahua puri, Rasputka, boiled kanda from the forest, Amla chutney, Ber chutney, and Madiya pej. The sheer variety of dishes was overwhelming, and it is nearly impossible now in hindsight to recall the names of each one!
The Farm-to-table Philosophy
The mela wasn’t just about relishing traditional food; it was about understanding the journey of food from the farm to the plate. The phrase “Khet Se Pet Tak” resonated throughout the event, emphasizing the importance of sustainable agriculture, local food systems, and the role of indigenous knowledge in ensuring food security. The resurgence of millets in global health trends—ironically now championed by the urban elite—served as a reminder of how these so-called poor man’s crops were once an essential part of rural diets.
Beyond food, the mela was a confluence of art, learning, and community spirit. One of the highlights was when the villagers’ children discovered the magic of capturing life’s fleeting moments through the lens. As they learned the basics of photography from the event’s chief photographer, their eyes sparkled with newfound curiosity, turning the mela into a bright canvas waiting to be framed.
Reviving Traditions, Embracing Them
Jevnaar Mela was not just a festival; it was a movement. It reminded the people of Saraipali and beyond. That their traditional food, once abandoned, should continue being a part of their food basket. It celebrated self-reliance, nutritional awareness, and cultural pride. Through a day of feasting, storytelling, and learning, the mela rekindled a love for indigenous crops and strengthened the bond between the land and its people.
As the sun set over Saraipali, leaving behind echoes of laughter and the lingering aroma of home-cooked meals, one thing became clear. Traditions may fade, but with collective effort and conscious choices, they can always be revived. Jevnaar Mela is proof that food is not just sustenance — it is identity, heritage, and a reason to come together in celebration.
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